I've found a batch of NOS Universal 16mm stainless steel buckles. Rather than the more common "U" buckle, these have a much more understated "Universal" engraving on the side. The seller claimed that these were nearly identical to Patek buckles, which are known to date to the early 1960s, and that jewelry store--now out of business--where she had acquired them was once a Patek and Universal Geneve dealer in upstate New York. I checked out the claims and believe that they're accurate, adding a charming little bit of provenance to these great buckles.

I did my homework on the Patek connection too. The last two pictures are from the net, showing the identical style in a Patek buckle. Based on my research, I believe that this very unique and particular buckle style was commissioned by the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York City, who was then the only authorized Patek and Universal Geneve importer and distributor in the United States. The Patek examples that I found were cast in white gold, while my stock of Universal Geneve buckles is all in steel.

These fit any watch strap that tapers down to 16mm on the buckle end. They are easily installed with a common spring bar tool, or in a pinch, a toothpick.

Allow me to suggest a Horween Shell Cordovan leather strap with one of these buckles as the perfect way to finish off your Universal. You can find the Horween straps at my online store, and because of my own Universal collection, I keep a good selection of the hard-to-find 19mm straps.

I'm based in NYC, and world wide shipping is no problem.

Send me a message or check out on my site.

Price: $200USD, shipped for free in the US with direct payment