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The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998. | |||||||
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A forum for identifying and avoiding wholly or partially non-authentic wristwatches --
including counterfeit, replica, Frankenwatches and other fake or bastardized pieces.
Our objective here is to DISCOURAGE the sales and purchase of counterfeit
wristwatch and jewelry products. It is also for helping people identify
watches that are mostly authentic, but have been: altered for personal customization,
repaired with inappropriate parts or modified to be passed off as more valuable pieces.
Including a photo of the piece you are talking about ALWAYS helps! You can learn how to post a photo here: How To Include Photos In Your Postings. 'For sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Links to Internet auctions are acceptable only if their purpose is to question the authenticity of a product or provide new clues for identifying counterfeit products. Links that appear to be 'shills' promoting the sale of counterfeit products will be deleted. Links to websites of sellers of counterfeit items are not permitted -- we know they are out there and do not need to be encouraging them by sending traffic to their sites. Privacy, additional policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.
:There are three considerations when restoring a watch: (i) how much to restore? (ii) what will it sell for when restored? (iii) what will it sell for without restoration? So basically, if you want to sell, don't spend too much money.
A new battery and polishing the glass will do the most to increase saleability.
A jeweller will probably do the polishing for next to nothing at the same time the battery is changed.
If not, polishing a glass is something that you can often do yourself on newer watches (I include 1973 as "newer")
Use "Brasso"* on the glass. Rub in a circular motion, then left to right/right to left, then up down and down/up and finally in a circle again. All this should taken not more than 30 seconds. Now count to 30 and polish off with an absorbent, soft, clean cloth.This takes out all but the deeper scratches.
Scratches on the case are a different matter and may require a professional depending on whether the case surface is gold or steel. Gold is easier to polish but, unless they are really numerous and spoil the look, you may as well leave them alone.
*Brasso - I don't know if this available in the USA, it comes in a circular tin and is cotton wadding impregnated with a polishing agent for ... you've guessed it... brass. Test a small area (say in the corner near the case) first, very old plastics, like cellulose, do not take kindly to it and go sticky and cloudy, whereas it is fine with acrylic. I've used it on my Constellation (1964) Seamaster (1969) and Geneve (1974) with great success. The improvement is instant and miraculous.
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