Thanks, Rob, for all this excellent advice.

I'm not sure that I'll "cut over" to the new system all at once, but as I find time, I will begin experimenting with all the variables.

One element that I wanted to mention: After six or eight years of shooting with the camera mounted to a Magic Arm (Manfrotto), one element of the recent photo shoots that I really enjoyed was hand-holding the camera. It was such a pleasure to change angles by moving the camera, in my hands, rather than moving the watch / the Magic Arm / etc. Quickly changing angles was especially important, as I was trying to avoid the "hot spots" (reflections) on the crystals.

So -- with the pair of Speedlights -- I am wondering whether I will be able to use a fast enough shutter speed, so that I can contimue to hand-hold the camera. This was one of the most enjoyable aspects of shooting with the Speedlights. I know that it's all about trade-offs, and changing different variables, but this was a very enjoyable aspect of the new set-up.

Thanks again, and please forgive me if it takes some time to fully implement your recommended approach. I will be learning as I go, which is half the fun!!

Jeff

+++++++++++++++++++++++

: Hi Jeff

: Let’s start with a new toy.

: Take a look at http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

: This is an online DOF “depth of field calculator”. This will
: give us the right aperture setting for your lens. Trail and
: error always works but this will give you a solid starting
: point.

: If we plug in the Nikon D300 and a 60mm focal length 3ft from the
: watch shot flat out f2.8 gives us a DOF of 0.08ft or 0.96”
: which may be dramatic but for our purposes is too narrow.

: A quick mess with the calculator tells us at f5 we get about 1.7”
: which should give us a crisp image across the watch.

: F5 is nice in that most prime lenses are the sharpest a few stops
: away from maximum.

: So, the higher the f stop or aperture, the larger the DOF. The
: downside is that the higher f stop slows the camera down. In
: your case is should not matter because you have LOTS of light.

: So we know the distance to the watch will be 3’ the aperture will
: be f5.

: What about ISO. The higher the number, the faster we can shoot.
: Which is good to a point, the trade off is with increased ISO
: come increased grain. We can combat it to a certain extent in
: post processing but it is always better to get it right at the
: source.

: From now on we shoot ISO 100.

: As far as a hood goes, a rolled up piece of paper and some tape
: works just fine. What we want is to prevent light going from the
: flash directly into the lens. It won’t make a huge difference
: but the little things add up. Here is a cheat
: http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/

: I am a Cannon guy, don’t hold that against me. So your camera is
: new to me. Your manual found here
: http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D300_en.pdf shows on
: page 91 how to use mirror lock up. A handy feature when trying
: to capture minute detail as the mirror does move fast and does
: shake the camera itself. A remote release will help as well.

: A tripod is a must. It will allow for a crisp shot with a lot less
: light. The $65 one will do but if you are really jumping in I
: recommend something from Manfrotto. Spendy, really well built
: and available at any good photo shop.

: So, pop the camera on the tripod, set mirror lock up and tape your
: custom printed hood on.

: Set the camera to manual because you are now that kind of guy.

: Start with the flashes on manual with a low power setting say 1/8
: or 1/16. I am really guessing because I don’t know how bright
: the light in the room is, how opaque the acrylic is and the
: flash to subject is.

: The acrylic should be perpendicular to the line from the flash to
: the watch.

: ISO 100 aperture 5 and as for time, the one thing we haven’t
: touched. I can’t tell you.
: Try a 20th of a second. Too bright, drop the time, too dark
: increase the time. Only change one variable at a time and when
: you find something you like, write it down.

: After you figure out the right time, do it all again with more
: flash power, then less, then try it with the lens flat out f2.8
: just for fun.

: Pick one variable and adjust the time to match.

: Take a PILE of shots and with each change try to guess ahead what
: the effect will be.

: Move the camera in closer and repeat. Your DOF will tighten up but
: everything else will be the same.

: Most importantly have a blast and get a little artsy.

: The great thing about photography is that no one will ask how many
: crap shots did you take before you got the great one.

: If any of this doesn’t make sense it is late.

: Say “cheese”!!

: Rob