The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998. | ||||||||
|
||||||||
|
Feel free to discuss pricing and specific dealers. But 'for sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Full archive of all messages is accessible through options in the Search and Preferences features. Privacy, policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.
For the answer to the NUMBER #1 most frequently asked question here--for details or value of a specific older Omega watch you have--go to: Tell Me About My Omega. | Learn more about How To Include Photos and HTML In Your Postings. | To contact someone with a question not relevant to other readers of the forum, please click on their email address and contact them privately. |
Can anyone give me a few guidelines to distinguish
a real Seamaster Midsize Quartz from a fake?
I'm probably going to buy one (with papers, box etc.) from a private seller, so I really want to see quickly if it's real or not.
I figured out some markers:
1. There must be an Omega logo below the Seahorse on the back
2. The top marker of the bezel must fall into the triangle and may not thrust out (only the little iron "ring")
3. There must be a little illuminating piece on the right side of the date
4.....
5.....
Can someone please "complete" this list?
I can recognize bad fakes, but I really can use some help recognizing "good" fakes.
Thanks a lot!
P.S:
We're talking about the watch on the picture.
Chronocentric and zOwie site design and contents (c) Copyright 1998-2005, Derek Ziglar; Copyright 2005-2008, Jeffrey M. Stein. All rights reserved. Use of this web site constitutes acceptance of the terms of use. | CONTACT | TERMS OF USE | TRANSLATE |