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The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998. | |||||||
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Feel free to discuss pricing and specific dealers. But 'for sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Full archive of all messages is accessible through options in the Search and Preferences features. Privacy, policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.
For the answer to the NUMBER #1 most frequently asked question here--for details or value of a specific older Omega watch you have--go to: Tell Me About My Omega. | Learn more about How To Include Photos and HTML In Your Postings. | To contact someone with a question not relevant to other readers of the forum, please click on their email address and contact them privately. |
I just purchased my first Omega yesterday. It's a brand new (1997) Seamaster Professional Automatic/Chronograph, Full Size: a 2332.80 with brushed and polished SS and 18K gold polished case, body and bracelet; blue dial; skeleton hands; and an 1120 movement. As far as I can tell, this particular two-tone model is somewhat unusual. If anyone out there has info. about the 2332.80, please let me know.
I've had two Rolex watches: one was stolen years ago, the other just plain sucked and I finally sold it last year. I currently own an elegant yet boring Tissot T-Gold (18K) Carson which I also plan to sell, a truly lovely vintage 18K gold Burlington Special pocket watch in pristine condition, a Red Acrylic "Toy Watch" that I actually like quite a lot, and sundry "bang-ups" for digging in the dirt. But this Omega is a work of art, and I've fallen hard for it.
Best of all, I got it for half suggested retail. The jeweler, a friend for years, is liquidating his Omega stock before moving into a new space across town.
But the thing that finally tipped the scales in favor of buying this watch was learning all about it--as well as other watches and watch movements--from this site. Thanks everyone!
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