The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998. | ||||||||
|
||||||||
|
Feel free to discuss pricing and specific dealers. But 'for sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Full archive of all messages is accessible through options in the Search and Preferences features. Privacy, policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.
For the answer to the NUMBER #1 most frequently asked question here--for details or value of a specific older Omega watch you have--go to: Tell Me About My Omega. | Learn more about How To Include Photos and HTML In Your Postings. | To contact someone with a question not relevant to other readers of the forum, please click on their email address and contact them privately. |
I’m a bit worried about spending $2,800 on a watch that I am not buying from a dealer; I wanted to see if there are specific markings or elements I should look for when inspecting this watch in order to determine its authenticity.
So far from old posts (2007) I found that I should stay away from serial No. 816880298, as well as making sure that the antireflective material be present on both sides and that the bezel not be larger than the case. But this was from 2007 could these have changed since?
Does Omega have a way of certifying the serial number? I still have not had the watch in my hands but will have access to it next week.
Thank you for your Help!
Chronocentric and zOwie site design and contents (c) Copyright 1998-2005, Derek Ziglar; Copyright 2005-2008, Jeffrey M. Stein. All rights reserved. Use of this web site constitutes acceptance of the terms of use. | CONTACT | TERMS OF USE | TRANSLATE |