: Hi:

: I have just begun the process of deciding which watch to buy myself
: for my 60th b'day. I am new to this as the only watches I have
: are a Wenger Chrono (10 yrs) and an old (30 yrs) Seiko dress
: watch that still runs.

: As with many people, I do the internet thing and try and educate
: myself on what one needs to consider when buying a mechanical
: watch. This process is further complicated by the myriad of
: watch manufacturers. However, as least for now, it seems that I
: have narrowed the field to three brands; Omega, Oris and TAG. I
: am looking for an automatic chronograph. The watches I am
: considering are:

: 1. Omega Speedmaster Date 323.30.40.40.06.001
: 2. Omega Speedmaster Date 3210.50.00
: 3. Omega Speedmaster Co-axial 311.30.44.50.01.002
: 4. TAG Carrera Calibre 16 CV2010.BA0794
: 5. Oris Big Crown Chronograph 01 674 7567 4064-07 5 21 53

: From reading posts on this website and others, I do appreciate that
: there are significant differences in prices and quality between
: the TAG/Omega and Oris watches. I also did what I could to
: understand the differences in movements, etc.

: This is a once in a lifetime purchase for me and appreciate that
: this is just as much about the "connection" I have for
: the watch as it is about the technical aspects of the purchase.

: What I seeking is opinions in helping me through this process. I
: have time on my hands to make a decision.

: Nails

Similarities:

You are considering five automatic winding chronographs, all of whom have a date function.
All have (I believe) sapphire crystals.
Four of the five have 100M water resistance.
Four of the five have a tachymeter scale.
Three of the five have the same base movement, the ETA/Valjoux 7750.
Three of the five have the typical 7750 dial layout of 12-9-6 positions.
Three of the five (the Omegas) are chronometers -- tested and certified for accuracy.

Differences:

Check to ensure the Oris has a sapphire crystal.
The Oris has 30M water resistance.
The Oris lacks a tachymeter scale.
The Omega coaxial has a Frederic Piguet chronograph movement with a coaxial escapement, which is a significantly better timekeeper.
The longer numbered Omega also has a Frederic Piquet chronograph movement with a traditional escapement.
These two watches have the more traditional and balanced "tricompax" dial of 3-6-9 positions.
The TAG and Oris are not chronometers, which means not only that they were not tested, but that a lower grade and less finished 7750 movement from ETA was used.

Brand comments:

Omega finishes their movements to a high degree and alters ETA movements with their own improved winding system.
Note the number of watches with exhibition back in the Omega collection; there is no difference in the movement used in a closed back watch and the exhibition back watch (excepting a nylon part in a manual chronograph movement you are not considering).
Omega uses F. Piguet high grade movements (F. Piguet movements are used extensively in far more expensive watches than Omega).
All Omega watches have a high level of fit and finish to the case and bracelet.

TAG makes fine watches, but few are well finished, and it is somewhat rare to see exhibition backs.
Where TAG has features comparable to Omega, they are nearly equivalent in quality (chronometer vs. chronometer), but the finish details may be slightly less.

Oris is simply a cheaper alternative, using lower (often lowest) grade versions of the same movements.
The fit and finish are not comparable, particularly in the watch face.

Closing:

However, a mechanical watch is a bit of a passion. A quartz watch will keep better time and most won't know the difference.
It is about how you feel wearing the watch.

Try the alternatives (or a close equivalent) on and see it on your wrist. Internet photos are no substitute for wrist time.
If possible, compare the alternatives side by side.

Good luck in your search.

Sam