zOwie Omega Discussion Forum

We know Louis Brandt started a business in 1848. In 1877, Louis Brandt forms a partnership with his second son, Louis-Paul Brandt, succeeding the form in which Louis senior had operated since 1848. The company operates in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

1877 -- Louis Brandt & Fils (Louis Brandt & son)

The founder, Louis Brandt passed away in 1879.

1879 -- Louis Brandt & Frere (Louis Brandt & brother) is formed by Louis-Paul Brandt and his brother, the third son, Cesar Brandt
The Brandt family always gave their male descendants second name of Louis, theoretically perserving the use of the firm's name.

In 1880, the brothers move the firm to Bienne (Biel in German).

By 1889, the company which will become Omega is producing 100,000 units and is Switzerland's largest single watchmaker.

The Omega calibre is introduced in 1894 and is very successful.

The company's name is registered:

1900 Louis Brandt & Frere, Suze Factories is used until World War I

The elder brother, Louis-Paul Brandt, passes away unexpectedly on 14 April 1903.

One month later (!?!), Cesar Brandt transforms the company to:

1903 -- Louis Brandt & Frere-Omega Watch Company

Cesar passes away unexpectedly on 11 October 1903, with ownership and leadership succeeding to the founder's grandchildren, the eldest of which is 24!

Louis Brandt & Frere continues to be used in advertising and on official correspondence for some time. After all, it is the name of the company!

This name came from the Omega calibre, the 19'" (line or ligne -- one tenth of a French inch) or 43.2 mm mass produced pocket watch calibre used from its introduction in 1894 until 1931 (37 years). The base calibre looked like this model from the first year of production (most photos from "Omega: A Journey Through Time"):

One of the early watches it was put in was reference number 141, which is the model featured in the 1910 Omega ad with Chronos flying over the Omega factory.

Introduced in 1898, it (reference 141) was produced until 1967, or 69 years!. Makes the Speedmaster's 50 years and six or so reference number changes seem short lived!

It appears the 19 line Omega calibre was replaced by the calibre 43L

and later by the calibre 38.5L, renamed the calibre 160 to 163

The "Omega" movement was produced in a variety of sizes, from 9'" to 21'". It was also produced in various grades, with the regulation, number of jewels and adjustment increasing as the grade increased, as well as the placement of a greater number of jewels in screwed chatons.

The highest grades had 21 or 23 jewels, most in screwed chatons, with snail cam regulators and were C or D grade. The highest grades were CCCR and DDR.

The base calibre had 7 to 16 jewels, none in chatons, standard regulation and no adjustments, as you can see above. Compare the DDR-grade below.

This is a 23 jewel DDR chronometer produced in 1906 for the Guatemalan retailer La Perla

This is a 1909 23 jewel DDR finished in silvered nickel, presented as a gift by the company (Louis Brandt & Frere) to an employee for 25 years service.

1909 23 jewel DDR, note that it is not signed Omega, but Louis Brandt & Frere

Finding one of the DDR and later CCCR movements is a rarity. Production of such expensive and chronometer tested movements was low.

However, when purchasing a pocket watch, the case and the watch were often sold separately. Some wise men purchased the best and most accurate movement they could, but put it in a base metal or gold plated case.

You never know what you may find inside a pocket watch case until you open it and actually look.

I am an Omega collector.

I understand how the company was named. I know what it was named for.

If I like Omega, shouldn't I have an Omega with an Omega in it?

In fact, how can anyone who says they are passionate about the company not have an example of what started it all?

So, I HAD to buy this watch, right? You all agree, right? Anyone? Anyone?

I got lucky -- the last initial is H. I think I read that as FHH. I'm SJH.

CWC Co. ?? Hmmm?

Earlier I posted:

[quote]
In 1880, the brothers move the firm to Bienne (Biel in German).

They found a separate company Fabrique de boites La Centrale SA (Central Watch Case Company would be a free translation) so named in 1896, which operated until 1977 and provided cases for many (ultimately) Omega watches.

[/quote]

Someone else may have to explain if that is the same company . . .

The face appears to be enamel, if rather plain. It does have a sunken subseconds dial.

The numbering on the hunter case cover is consistent.

The hands are deeply blued.

but, it's plated, with a 25 year guarantee and seems to be from Crescent.

And the movement . . . .

21 jewels, no chronometer markings, gold screwed chatons, snail cam regulation -- I am told this is a grade DD, one level below the top -- hidden in a modest gold plated case.

The serial number dates it to about 1904, making it one of the earlier watches to be produced after Omega changed its name

It truly gleams

The decoration is subtle, and you do not see how complex it is until the light hits it or you get a lucky reflection

The regulation is interesting -- I can't quite figure it out?

So, now I can say I am an Omega collector, with an Omega watch with an Omega calibre. :-!

Sam aka Hewybaby