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Hi Guys,
please let me start by saying I'm not a Seamaster 300 expert, but what I list here I KNOW is right.
The trouble now is that there are so many fakes out there, some are from the 70's & have been well used & most have genuine Omega movements in them.
Even honest dealers have a hard time telling them from the real thing.
Teeritz, yes you're correct. If you can see the line between the luminous block & the outside of the dial ( I've seen these lines referred to as Stubbies ), the dial is a fake. ( see e.g. below)
I don't agree on the bezels though. Either type of 1 is OK. David Thurgate has posted an example & here's a link to an article written by Bill Sohne.
( Bill is an Omega Moderator on another forum )
A Link to Bill's Seamaster 300 article
Bill shows an advert with the 1 with a "hook" & 2 pics of watches both showing the "straight" 1. There is NO way Bill would own/post pics of fakes. I believe both types of bezel are acceptable, but cannot say which ones were used when. I've heard rumours of Military/Civilian uses, but I'm not convinced they are right.
A couple more tips....
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If it has a date window... There MUST be a "frame" around the window...
NOT like this example ( compare this to the date window in Bill Sohne's article)
I also believe that the Luminous block shouldn't "touch" the minute markers.. again compare the Luminous mark at 09:00 in the above pic with those that Bill has used.
( The above watch has 40 minutes left & is currently $395 )
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Here's a great example of "stubbies"
See on the left of the luminous block 09:00 ? ( & most others!)...
This is also an example of a date window without the "frame"
(this watch has 7 hrs left & is currently 255 GBP - about $400)
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Finally, the loop on the 6 & 9 should be "open". Yet again, check Bills pics with those shown above.
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I'm sure there are many many more tests. But if a watch shows any of the above "features", stay away ( or make sure it's really cheap, cause probably only the movement came from an Omega factory).
I hope this helps a bit.
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