The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998.
Informational Websites ChronoMaddox -- the legacy of Chuck Maddox OnTheDash -- vintage Heuer website Zowie -- Omega information
Discussion Forums ChronoMaddox Forum Heuer Forum Omega Forum
Counterfeit Watchers ChronoTools Forum ChronoTrader Forum

zOwie Omega Discussion Forum

Opened July 1999, zOwie is the Internet's first and longest running discussion forum dedicated to Omega brand watches.

Feel free to discuss pricing and specific dealers. But 'for sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Full archive of all messages is accessible through options in the Search and Preferences features. Privacy, policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.

For the answer to the NUMBER #1 most frequently asked question here--for details or value of a specific older Omega watch you have--go to: Tell Me About My Omega. Learn more about How To Include Photos and HTML In Your Postings. To contact someone with a question not relevant to other readers of the forum, please click on their email address and contact them privately.

I was also told by a guy who owns one that...

...another way to spot a fake is by looking at the luminous markers at the 3 & 9 o'clock positions on the dial. Now let me see if I can explain this properly; between the very edge of the dial and the tritium painted markers at 3 and 9 o'clock, there is a thin line which indicates the 15 and 45 minute points on the dial. This IS a fake SM 300. No such line should appear on the real McCoy...according to this fella who owns one. He tells me he was told this by a watchmaker. I will check with the Repair Manager where I work to see if there's any truth in this.
Also ( and I don't know if this is another way to tell or not, but here goes), I've been looking at the vintage Seamaster 300s on eBay for about six months now and I've noticed discrepancies with the numbers on the bezel. On some models, the number ten has a one that looks like this-1. While other models show a one that is just a straight line without the little hook at the top or whatever its called. I only look at non date models with the Cal 552 auto movements. I have heard that this watch was faked quite a bit during the Vietnam War and sold to unwitting soldiers.
Anybody else out there (SteveW62, I'm talkin' to you, man) know if the bezel numbers difference is of any relevance or not? I'd love to know before I purchase one of these babies.

teeritz

Current Position
Chronocentric and zOwie site design and contents (c) Copyright 1998-2005, Derek Ziglar; Copyright 2005-2008, Jeffrey M. Stein. All rights reserved. Use of this web site constitutes acceptance of the terms of use. CONTACT | TERMS OF USE | TRANSLATE